Producer Profile: Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon

Producer Profile: Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon

The name Lafon is synonymous with greatness. Dominique Lafon's legendary Meursaults are some of the most collectible, long-lived white wines in the world, fetching eye-popping prices on wine lists and auctions alike. Much to our (and all Burgundy fanatics) delight, Dominique has set his sites south, in the limestone hillsides of Mâcon. And in his typical fashion, he's taken what was previously thought of as humble, rustic Chardonnays and turned them into exhilarating, chiseled, world-class wines that rival those from the more famous villages to the north, including Lafon's home turf of Meursault.   

The Mâconnais has become Dominique's second home, and a place rife with opportunity. He has delicately and precisely collected parcel after parcel of only the best sites in the region. Each strikingly different, yet classically styled in typical Lafon fashion.

I feel incredibly lucky to offer this lot today, my largest allocation to date. A wide selection of truly wonderful white Burgundies, made by one of the biggest names in wine.
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Pouilly-Fuissé 'En Chatenay' 2022
$68.99

The top wine produced at the domaine. 'En Chatenay' is a single parcel in Vergisson, considered the best village within the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation. The vines are planted on a north-facing slope rich in iron oxide with deep limestone bedrock. Aged in old Meursault barrels from the family's main estate for a full year and a half before bottled and release.

A classy and polished wine. The nose is full of fresh lemon and white peach with a touch of sea spray and raw hazelnut. Nervy and vibrant on the palate with the type of deep concentration that lets you know you're drinking something serious. Finishes with salted peaches and a kick of piercing citrus fruit. Give this a thorough decant if drinking now, but know this wine is built to last and will reward a few years of patience. 
Mâcon-Uchizy 'Les Maranches' 2022
$43.99

A favorite parcel of Dominique's, within the commune of Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine, the very first village he purchased land in. The vines were planted in 1977 and 1999 and sit on stark white limestone bedrock with a thin layer of clay on top. Fermented and aged in large 45 hectoliter oval foudres, the wine ages in the cellar for 8 months before racking and bottling.

A distinctive, more forward style of Burgundy, with ripe aromas of peach, quince and lemon, followed by minty coolness and a slight tropical edge. The striking influence from the limestone soils are felt on the palate, where a touch of chalkiness and salted marcona almond mingle with tangy citrus fruit. There's plenty of power here, making this is a perfect wine with grilled fish dishes. 
Mâcon-Bussières 'Le Monsard' 2022
$43.99

Vines planted in 1982, 'Le Monsard' sits on even thinner soils than 'Les Maranches'. Pure white limestone and limestone bedrock with only a small amount of topsoil, if it all. These tough, rocky soils force the vines to dig deep for for nutrients and water, resulting in small, concentrated grape clusters. Fermented and aged identically to 'Les Maranches'.

A step up in richness from 'Le Maranches', the nose here ventures into baked apple, apricot, cinnamon stick and exotic five spice. The palate is a masterclass in balance, a tightrope act of perfectly ripe orchard fruit, laser focused acidity and taut limestone minerality. A fantastic wine showcasing the power and elegance of Chardonnay grown on pure limestone. 
Mâcon-Chardonnay 'Clos de la Crochette' 2022
$43.99

From a single, walled vineyard in the village of Chardonnay, planted in 1987. The soils here are deep limestone bedrock with decomposed chalk and some clay in the topsoil. Fermented and aged in a combination of large oak foudre and smaller demi-muids for 8 months before bottling.

A delightful combination of cerebral complexity, levity and approachability. A vibrant yet focused nose offers lemon verbena, ripe yellow apple and light floral accents. There's a touch of chalk dust earthiness that contrasts nicely with the fruit. The palate's juicy freshness, salty minerals and refreshing acidity carry its body effortlessly, making this a perfect aperitif wine. But it has 'plenty of stuffing' for herbed, grilled pork loin.
Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine 2022
$39.99
 
Fruit sourced from a number of sites within the village of Macon-Milly-Lamartine, including vines right next to the winery. All planted on a mix of limestone and clay, resulting in an accesible, easy-drinking wine. Like the 'Clos de la Crochette', it's aged in a mix of foudre and demi-muid for 8 months.

A bright and fresh style, but with serious energy and concentration. The nose is full of lemon, yellow plum, Anjou pear and subtle floral notes. The linear and light palate follows through with more crisp citrus and taut acidity. A light and invigorating Chardonnay that's just plain fun to drink. 
Little is left to be said of Dominique Lafon. A titan in Burgundy and a patriarch of Meursault, he took over his family's estate in 1985. He's been a trailblazer from the beginning and an early advocate of biodynamic farming in the region. 

He launched Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon in 1999 as a passion project. His perpetual curiosity led him to explore the possibilities of this historically overlooked Mâcon.

Today the estate covers more than 26 hectares across every prestigious village and vineyard in the Mâconnais. Lafon has labored heavily to bring this area to the forefront of French wines, and now with this dream realized, he's passed the reins to his daughter Léa Lafon, who continues to push the farming and winemaking to new heights.  
Justin Coleman
Proprietor 
Monarch Wine Merchants