Producer Spotlight: Château de Béru

Producer Spotlight: Château de Béru

Château de Béru is very, very old. A generational estate whose family has been continuously making wine for 400 years. It's one of the those inimitable domain's whose longevity, commitment to tradition and heritage make it uniquely special in the vast world of wine. Where else can one experience something as it was hundreds of years ago?

Today's trio from this centuries old Château are truly exceptional Chablis. These are chiseled, angular and mineral-forward wines that are as good as any being made in the appellation today. Yet, what sets these apart from other old-school legends (see: Dauvissat, Raveneau) are their energy. A hard to describe wine term with no literal translation, as it's neither an aroma nor flavor, but a sensation of vibrancy and vigor. It feels like an electrical current runs through these wines, which lights up your palate and awakens your senses.

These are some of the rarest and most underrated wines in Burgundy today, and I'm hugely excited to offer you THREE of the estate's top cuvées. Including the walled monopole of Clos Béru, for which the domaine is named.
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'Clos Béru' Chablis 2020 $127.99

Sourced from the original vineyard that defines the Château, it is a true Clos, originally walled in the 12th Century. The vines were mostly replanted in the 80s and sit on classic Kimmeridgian limestone. The grapes are hand-harvested and fermented with native yeasts in oak barrels of various sizes. The wine ages for 18 months in old, large oak cask followed by another 6 months in bottle before release.

A wine with Grand Cru-like intensity, this 2020 is wide open and drinking at its peak. Bursting with aromas of yuzu, lemon, baked brioche, crunchy apple and subtle, flinty smokiness. The medium-bodied palate boasts layers of citrus, just-ripe peach, velvety textures and a concentrated, stony mineral vein. There's power in spades, but it's expertly parried by vibrant, mouth-watering acidity. A complete, near perfect Chablis.  
'Montserre' Chablis 2022 $67.99

An apply named single vineyard: 'Mont' for its location on a hill's crest, a cool site exposed on all sides, and 'Serre', a French term for limestone strata settled at an angle, allowing the vines to dig deeper than normal. Harvested by hand and fermented with ambient yeasts, the wine ages for a year in neutral oak before release. 

Tension and balance define this wine above all else, as the high altitude vineyard lends serious verve, while the luminous exposure brings perfectly ripe fruit and texture. Brisk on the nose, it leads with crushed oyster shells, lemon zest, white flowers, raw almond and a distinct iodine, sea-spray minerality. The palate is taut, with zingy Chablis acidity and an array of citrus and green pear. A wine that could only come from Béru, this is Chablis as you've never had before. 
'Terroirs de Béru' Chablis 2022 $57.99
 
A blend of various soils and exposures, the 'Terroirs' is a snapshot of the Château. Mostly planted in the 80's around the estate, the vines sit on traditional Kimmeridgian soils with a touch of clay in some parcels. Harvested and fermented like all other Béru wines, the only difference here is the use of stainless steel tanks for aging for 18 months.

Light and mineral forward, there's classic Chardonnay citrus notes, yellow pear, white florals and petrichor. Bright and fresh on the palate, the yellow citrus is perfectly matched by the steely minerality and a bouyant body. Lithe and elegant but with plenty of muscle and concentration, this is a versatile wine to serve as an aperitif or with grilled fish.  
The hill of Béru was first recognized in the 11th century as a prime location for vines due to its natural exposure and deep limestone bedrock. Winemaking was originally done by a Cistercian Abbey in nearby Pontingy, whom also fortified the hill in the 12th Century. The de Béru family has been making wine uninterrupted since the completion of the wall.

While the Château has gone through various iterations and changes, it remained a commercial winery until phylloxera, when the family decided to lease part of the land to various farmers, making wine only for family consumption.

Today it is Athénaïs de Béru who heads the estate. She's taken it fully biodynamic and continues to stun Chablis lovers with her precise and elegant style. She is simultaneously preserving the family's history while pioneering new frontier's for the ancient Château de Béru. 
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Justin Coleman
Proprietor
Monarch Wine Merchants