There are a small handful of legendary winemakers that have altered the course of wine's storied history. People that have built monumental reputations on producing some of the greatest, most coveted wines on the planet, from places once thought impossible to do so.
Frank Cornelissen is one such winemaker. He is solely responsible for shining a global spotlight on the wines of Mt. Etna, and exposing this incredible terroir to the world. He's taken a place that was once thought to produce only rustic country wines, and elevated them to Italy's elite.
His wines, grown on the steep slopes of this active volcano, simply beguile me. There’s a simultaneous dichotomy in these wines: a weightlessness and richness at once. At their peak, they possess unmatched depth and structure, yet their buoyant flavors jump from the glass with exuberance. I liken them to a cross between Barolo and Burgundy, with bold, rich flavors combined with Pinot-like elegance and silken textures.
As is often the case with these types of wines, our small allocations usually prevent these bottles from ever hitting the shelves, they are immediately snatched up by collectors who know just how extraordinary they are. However, this year we were fortunate to secure a deep and varied range of Cornelissen's top Crus, including the elusive 'Magma' Grand Cru, easily one of the most distinctive and fascinating wine on the planet.
So while quantities are still limited, I'm thrilled to offer wines of this caliber to you today. If you haven't experienced the grandeur of Frank Cornelissen's Etna, this is a golden opportunity. As the subject of this letter states: this is an unprecedented offer. |
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'Magma' 2020 $322.99
Cornelissen's Grand Cru, 'Magma' is an incomparable take on Etna wine. Entirely Nerello Mascalese planted in 1910, at 910 meters above sea level. These vines have never been grafted. The vineyard's northeastern exposure preserves acidity against the hot Sicilian sun. Hand-harvested, de-stemmed and fermented with ambient yeast. The wine is aged in neutral tank for 18 months, then bottled and aged for another year and half before release.
This is Cornelissen's star for a reason. Big, bold, rich and baritone, but with freshness to balance. It's simultaneously dense and elegant. Aromas of cassis, boysenberry, Ceylon cinnamon and rosemary are contrasted with heady notes of smoky leather, cedar, and spice. The tannins are firm but fine grained and supported by tangy acidity and deeply concentrated, palate-coating black fruit. Perfectly drinkable now, but patience in the cellar will reward anyone who can abstain from this rare bird.
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'Munjebel - CD' Rosso 2020 $84.99
The 40-year-old vines for this cuvée hail from the Contrada Calderara Sottana, a vineyard with prestige that Cornelissen gained access to in 2001. The soils here are full of small rocks that absorb sunlight and heat and radiate it during the evening, ensuring even ripeness. The wine sees 60 days of skin contact before pressing into large, neutral tanks. Aged identically to Magma before release.
More lithe and delicate than most of the other single vineyard wines, 'CD' exudes the fresher side of Nerello Mascalese. Strawberries, black cherry, thyme and five spice all mingle on the nose, while the palate's freshness reveals more bright red fruit on top of concentrated mid-palate depth. Tannins are pronounced but softened by aging, making this a versatile wine to pair with a variety of Sicilian fare, such as pasta Pesca Spada.
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'Munjebel - CR' Rosso 2020 $84.99
'CR' comes from Campo Re, a partially un-grafted vineyard at 735 meters above sea level. The soils here are richer, darker, where the vines, at more than 70-years-old, have dug deep into the vineyard. The exposure is straight north, meaning sunlight is limited throughout the day, preserving acidity and giving exquisit balance to the final wine. Vinified identically to 'CD', with the same 36 month aging regiment before bottling.
Sturdier and bolder than the other single cru wines, Cornelissen describes this wine as more Nebbiolo-esque. The flavors are similar, plenty of black cherry, dried rose petal, leather, tar and spice, but the tannins are silkier and less angular. A wine with serious depth and concentration, red meat and richer fare are the perfect accompaniment.
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'Munjebel - PA' Rosso 2020 $84.99
Porcaria, for which 'PA' is named, is a vineyard of 60-year-old Nerello Mascalese just over 600 meters above sea level. Much like 'CR', this vineyard has a northern exposure, bestowing delicate ripeness. The grapes are hand harvested, fermented and aged identically to the other Crus.
Higher toned and more effusive than the others, this wine bursts with blood orange and raspberry, with subtle accents of black cherry, rosemary and thyme. There is wonderful freshness on the palate in the form of juicy red berry fruit and crisp acidity, balancing the full-bodied, rich nature of this wine perfectly. A jubilant wine that can best be described as Mediterranean Pinot Noir.
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'Munjebel - FM' Rosso 2020 $79.99
From the same Contrada as 'PA', this is the lower part of the vineyard. Here, the vines are a touch younger, just over 40-years-old. This is a windy site, with better ventilation, so Frank vinifies this more delicately. Once harvested, the grapes see less time on the skins before spending 18 months in tank, followed by an additional 18 months in bottle.
Described as one of the most Burgundian of all the Crus, 'FM' is an elegant and giving wine. The delicate flavors are finely etched, with aromas of red cassis, baking spices and lilac, countered by layers of licorice, tobacco and faint wood smoke. The palate's beautiful red fruits and spice are framed by fine grained tannins and cleansing acidity. Etna's power, expertly harnessed.
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'Munjebel' Rosso 2022 $59.99
Sourced from several Crus with different altitudes and exposures, 'Munjebel' is Frank's take on classic Mt. Etna wine. The average vine age is about 50-years-old, and vinification is markedly different from the single Crus. Fermented with native yeast, followed by a year in tank before bottling and release.
There's wonderful vibrancy and punchiness to this wine, with fruit taking a more prominent role over the other 'Munjebel' wines. There's real juiciness to this wine, lots of strawberry and blackberry jam to balance the smoky Etna minerality. The lush richness is foiled by soft textures and crisp acidity. A perfect example of just how good Etna Rosso can be.
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'Susucaru' Rosso 2023 $39.99
The one and only, 'Susucaru' is a field blend of Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Capuccio, Minella, Allicante Bouschet and Uva Francesa. This is a snpashot of Etna that harkens back to an earlier time of field blends and mixing Contradas, predating the more modern, Burgundian approach. Vinification is simple, just a month on the skins and a year in tank.
Juicy and full of life, 'Susucaru' is a bouquet of orange blossom, red grapefruit, hibiscus and tangerine. The palate is awash in more red fruit and citrus but with bright, tangy freshness and lithe tannic grip. From pasta alla norma to cheeseburgers straight off the grill, this is the perfect mix of chill-able red buoyancy and Etna depth.
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Frank Cornelissen has been involved in wine for a long time, his recent explosion in popularity only a blip in his career. Raised in a family of wine merchants, Cornelissen used to help with the family business and fostered a connection to wine at an early age.
His first vintage was in 2001 when he had access to just a scant 0.4 hectares of vines on Mt. Etna. Since then, he's slowly built up his estate into a dedicated exploration into the terroir of this volcano. His farming takes precedent, with a biodynamic approach and zero pesticides, herbicides or other chemical treatments allowed.
Cornelissen is one of those special winemakers whose hard work, intelligence and guts have changes the course of Mt. Etna's history. |
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*SPECIAL NEWSLETTER PRICE - CHOOSE ANY 3 & RECEIVE 10% OFF
To order, reply directly to this email or call me at 843-576-4845
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Justin Coleman
Proprietor
Monarch Wine Merchants |
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