My most recent visit to Piedmont was filled with a plethora of steadfast and resolutely traditional Barolos and Barbarescos. I tasted dozens upon dozens of wines from historic, multi-generational estates who have been, continuously producing world class Nebbiolo using the same techniques since their inception. Being a huge fan of this style, I loved almost every bottle, although after a while I began to notice there was a bit of homogeneity to them, a sameness to their flavors. No doubt owing to traditional vinification's grip on many of the region's winemakers.
There was one estate whose wines stood out like a shining ray of light, their delicacy, vibrancy and elegance were unmatched. They were from young vigneron Olek Bondonio, whose eye-opening wines seem to be playing an octave higher than the rest. While Olek makes wine in his family's 200 year-old farmhouse, and sources fruit from historically acclaimed sites, it's his gentle, gossamer touch in the cellar that sets him apart.
These gently extracted Barbarescos capture Nebbiolo's refinement, with soaring berry fruit and beautiful rose petal aromatics that are impeccably balanced by delicate herbal and earthy sandalwood notes. These are standout wines in a region that's built a historic reputation for some of the world's best. |
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Barbaresco 'Roncagliette' 2021 $99.99
The star of the domaine's lineup, 'Roncagliette' is a parcel of 50-year-old vines down the driveway from Olek's house. A vineyard noted for its heavy clay soils with deep, blue marl bedrock. Manually harvested, crushed and left to ferment and macerate on the skins for two months before being pressed and aged in large, neutral oak botti for two years before bottling without fining or filtration.
As pure as wine gets, with layers of rosemary, cedar and dried rose petal, which stand atop a core of deep black fruit: plum, blackberry and cassis. The palate is strikingly concentrated given its delicacy and polish. Close-grained tannins and fresh acidity frame an array of rich, dark fruits and truffle earth tones. An iron fist in a velvet glove, an absolutely gorgeous wine.
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Barbaresco 'Starderi' 2021 $99.99
A parcel that Olek rents from a couple now too old to work themselves. 40-year-old vines planted on a steep slope in the northernmost commune of Neive. The soils are softer, with less marl, leading to a more delicate wine. Hand-harvest, the wine is vinified identically to 'Roncagliette' with two months on the skins, two years' in old botti, and bottled unfined and unfiltered.
More taught and perfumed, 'Starderi' is a hallmark Barbaresco. Concentrated but lithe, the nose is full of red berry, rose petal and sandalwood. The palate displays the wine's savory side with dried herbs and earthy, forest floor notes that accompany more brilliant red fruit. Its freshness is notable, in the form of pliant tannins crackling acidity. A radiant and truly beautiful Barbaresco.
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Langhe 'Rosso Giulietta' 2023 $39.99
From a scant 4 rows of Pelaverga planted by Olek's grandfather, the only known vines of Pelaverga found outside of its native Verduno. Grown in the 'Roncagliette' vineyard next to the Nebbiolo, on a plot with more southern exposure. Fermented in a mix of stainless steel and concrete tanks, then aged in neutral barrel until bottled in the spring.
It's hard to comprehend how polished this wine is when the winemaking seems so simple. Raspberries, bing cherries and licorice dazzle up front, while subtle white pepper and rosewater lay beneath. Bright on the palate with crunchy red fruit and crisp, refreshing acidity, it's deceptively complex and immensely elegant. I love it served with the slightest chill.
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Vino Rosso 'Mosco' 2023 $39.99
A blend of old vine Dolcetto and Barbera grown in the Alba commune. Hand-harvested and de-stemmed before fermented in a mix of concrete and steel tanks, then racked into large, used oak barrels for aging. Bottled without fining or filtration in the spring.
Punches far above it's weight, this is no ordinary vino rosso. Old vine concentration and a short maceration has yielded a wine with stunning poise yet serious power. Opens with a burst of red cherries and pomegranate, contrasted by deep violet florals, black pepper and toasted spices. The palate is ripe and succulent, where purity of fruit takes center stage. Just straight-up delicious! A wine that delivers pure joy.
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Olek Bondonio is a name that should be synonymous with Barbaresco. His family has been in Barbaresco area for more than 200 years. Olek's great-great grandfather was General Guglielmo Como, a founding member of the Cantina Barbaresco Sociale, the forerunner of the modern Produttori del Barbaresco.
Olek didn't take a direct path to winemaking, first going after a career in competitive snowboarding. With his mother's encouragement, he returned him home to work the vines, starting with a small vintage in 2005.
Today he farms seven hectares organically and by hand, while still producing wine out of the family's tiny cellar, in a basement that used to house cattle. He and his family live just a floor above. There is no large tasting room or modern winery, just the captivating wines, humble circumstances, and the last vestiges of a Barbaresco that in large part no longer exists. |
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Justin Coleman
Proprietor
Monarch Wine Merchants |
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