There is something very exciting happening in über-traditional Burgundy these days. Despite the region's venerated, multi-generational domaines, Burgundy has ironically become an incubator for young and intrepid winemakers, whose outsized talents, energy and fresh perspectives have garnered a fervent following among old-school Burghounds and young enthusiasts alike.
Sylvain Pataille is at the top of this next-gen class, and is my favorite new vigneron. His wines have a rejuvenating and enlightening mix of traditional Burgundian elegance and fresh, youthful vigor. He's injecting new life and ideas into Marsannay, a village at the northern tip of the Côte de Nuits which has long been overlooked and thought to produce only simple, bistro-wines destined for the bouchons of Dijon. His wines are cerebral and serious, yet simultaneously jubilant, expressive and an absolute blast to drink.
I'm thrilled to present this comprehensive selection to you today, an offer I had a lot of fun putting together. It celebrates Pataille's prodigious talents through his whites and reds. If you love Burgundy as I do, these are not to be missed. |
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Marsannay Blanc 'Chapitre' 2021 $179.99
One of Pataille's best parcels, Chapitre was once relegated to Bourgogne Blanc, but not anymore. This is white Burgundy at its peak, coming from vines planted in 1955 on classic clay and limestone soils. Fermented and aged for a year and a half in oak barrels, a third new.
The 2021 is full of detail and cut. Intensely concentrated, the nose is a dazzling array of ripe peach, crunchy apple, lemon zest and a hint of vanilla bean. There's serious mid-palate density, with more bold, golden orchard fruit and citric freshness paired with a silky medium body and wonderful textures. The finish seems to last a lifetime. This is the reason people go crazy for great white Burgundy.
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Marsannay Blanc 2022 $69.99
Sourced from a mix of parcels planted between 1949-2012, with some being rare plantings of Chardonnay Rose, a pink skinned clone (although this is NOT a rosé). The grapes are gently pressed and ferment in neutral oak before aging in French barrique, again a third new. Bottled after a 18 months of aging.
Generous and giving, the nose opens up with perfumed notes of lemon zest, white grapefruit and orange blossom. Racy from the start, the palate displays vibrant white peach, pear, more lemon citrus and chalky minerality. This is the perfect balance of power and lightness found in expertly made Burgundy. A wine that punches way above its price point.
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Bourgogne Aligoté 2022 $35.99
*magnum $79.99
A blend of two parcels, one with classic limestone soils and the other a rich, clay dominant vineyard. Vines average 50 years old. Hand harvested and fermented in stainless steel, then aged in a mix of used French oak and stainless steel tank for a full year before bottling.
An electric wine, Pataille's Aligoté is a testament to what the grape can do. A bouquet of freshly picked green pear and quince, matched by spicy Meyer lemon, salty minerals and pretty gardenia on the palate. With serious freshness and depth of flavor, this isn't a wine to ignore and shows why Pataille has built a reputation on this variety.
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Marsannay Rouge 2022 $59.99
Pinot Noir planted throughout the village, vines range between 40 and 75 years old. About a third of the grapes are left whole cluster with the rest de-stemmed. After fermentation in stainless steel the wine ages in older, neutral barrels for 18 months until bottled un-fined and unfiltered.
Rich and pure, the Marsannay Rouge is a testament to Pataille's light hand in the cellar. A layered nose of morello cherry, red currant and a touch of elegant dried red rose petal. The palate is bursting with juicy red and black fruit, coupled by gentle Pinot spice and black tea. All framed by a soft tannic structure and bright acidity. A wine of surprising depth and detail.
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Bourgogne Rouge 2022 $42.99
Pataille's entry level red, the grapes for the Bourgogne are from vines planted north of Marsannay in 1956 on classic clay-limestone soils. A portion of the grapes are left whole cluster for fermentation. The wine ages in traditional french oak barrels for 12 months with about 15% new.
Perhaps the easiest drinking of Pataille's reds, the Bourgogne Rouge is soft, bright and fresh. A high-toned nose of red raspberries and cherries is grounded by earthy, sous-bois undertones. The palate has lithe tannins and enough body to go with a variety of cuisine, but a perfect wine to sip on a cool Fall Sunday afternoon.
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Sylvain Pataille is perhaps one of the most important Burgundian figures you've never heard of. Though not from a winemaking family, his father was good friends with Jean Fournier, and young Pataille spent lengths of time amongst the vines. After attending winemaking school in Beaune, and a stint at Domaine George Roumier, Pataille started his own domaine in Marsannay. He began with a single hectare in 1999, and has since built up the domaine to cover over 15 hectares.
His wines are a testament to the incredible care taken by Pataille, with each wine aged until deemed ready; sometimes spending up to two years in barrel. These wines are a paragon of what top farming, under one of the most extraordinary oenological minds, can do. |
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*SPECIAL NEWSLETTER PRICE - CHOOSE ANY 3 & RECEIVE 5% OFF
To order, reply directly to this email or call me at 843.576.4845
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Justin Coleman
Proprietor
Monarch Wine Merchants |
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